M Hamid El Ghizlane

M'Hamid gets fewer visitors than Merzouga and therefore is less touristy. However, it is also more remote and therefore overall more expensive, while in Merzouga the dunes are right next to the village. M'Hamid is about 7-8 hr by car from Marrakech and 5 hr from Ouarzazate.

M'Hamid is next to the last major oasis one encounters on the way south into the greater Sahara. The area was historically important as the site (Sidi Khalil) where trade caravans gathered (some as large as 5,000 camels) before setting off to Timbuktu and other destinations. Little of its interesting history is to be found on websites or in tourist guide books, but knowledgeable locals share the facts and stories with pride and a touch of melancholy.

M'Hamid is also known as Bounou, once a thriving village made out of a mix of local Ait Atta Berbers, local Draoua (the indigenous and mixed Arabic-speaking communities of the Draa Valley in southern Morocco), and local Hassani tribes. The villages of Oulad Youssef, Oulad Mhaya and Ezouaya, amongst others, are scattered throughout the oasis. Local people get around on foot but small motorbikes are very popular too. Donkey carts are in widespread use for transporting goods.

The environment is harsh and fragile. You are urged to appreciate how scarce water is in the town. In the past taps went dry by early afternoon on many days. Despite this and to the severe frustration of locals, a number of the hotels have swimming pools. Choose wisely where you invest your money... it seems more sensible to head to the Moroccan coast if you are keen for a swim, desert temperatures notwithstanding.

Erg Chigaga:

By bus:

You can take a CTM bus from Casablanca, Marrakech, or any city along the N9 road (Ouarzazate, Zagora, Tagounite). From Ouarzazate the trip is 80 dirham; from Marrakech it is 160-190 dirham. CTM leaves from Marrakech at around 11:15 and from Ouarzazate at 16:00 and arrives M'hamid around 21:45 (as of Mar 2017). M'Hamid is listed by the CTM as "Lamhamid Ghozlane". Other bus companies include Supratours, and Voyages Farah.

By car:

There is an asphalt road to M'Hamid so you can reach the village from Ouarzazate by virtually any car. The trip from Ouarzazate is memorable, passing through small villages, the regional center of Zagora, and over a pass into the open desert.