Kirkwall

Kirkwall is a busy working port and at first glance not attractive, but the charming old town is just behind the industrial frontage. Small freighters, fishing vessels and inter-island ferries bustle around the harbour; people stroll about their business along the narrow alleys; the crumbling medieval stonework of the cathedral catches the sunlight. And you start to relax and feel the magic of Orkney... then a cruise ship arrives and its 4,000 passengers descend upon the place. Kirkwall and all the major sights of Orkney are mobbed when a cruise ship is in. However those visitors seldom stray from a standard circuit, so head for one of the many attractions they overlook, and return to enjoy Kirkwall in the evening after they've left.

Tourist information is at the bus station in town centre.

By plane:

1 Kirkwall Airport KOI IATA is 5 miles southeast of town. Loganair fly to Kirkwall from Dundee, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen and Sumburgh in the Shetland Islands. They also operate inter-island flights to Westray, Papa Westray, Sanday and Eday, see Orkney Islands#Get in for more details.

By boat:

There are four ferry routes between the Scottish mainland and Orkney. The only one to Kirkwall is the Northlink Aberdeen to Shetland car ferry, which calls here several nights a week. Northbound it leaves Aberdeen at 5PM (Apr-Oct Tu Th Sa Su, Nov-Mar Th Sa Su), reaching Kirkwall Hatston Terminal at 11PM before sailing on to Lerwick for 7:30AM next morning. Southbound the ferry leaves Lerwick at 5:30PM (Apr-Oct M W F, Nov-Mar: W & F), similarly reaching Kirkwall at 11PM before sailing on to Aberdeen for 7AM next morning.

For practical details and tips on using this ferry, see Shetland Islands#Get in. Points specific to Orkney are:

Ferries to Kirkwall, from Aberdeen and Lerwick, are evening sailings arriving by 11PM, so you don't need a cabin, a lounge seat is fine. (But you need to have sorted your Orkney accommodation, as near midnight is a poor time to start looking.) Sailings from Kirkwall to Aberdeen or Lerwick are overnight so you'll appreciate the cabin, and ability to doze on board till 9AM.

Motorists, check that you're in the correct queue of vehicles, otherwise you'll get locked in by vehicles going all the way to Shetland or Aberdeen.

At Kirkwall you need to disembark promptly, as the ferry soon sails on.

Fares vary by season, but in 2025 the mid-price fare from Aberdeen is £34 per adult, £16.60 per child and £137 per car. Reserving a reclining seat is £3.50, while twin cabins start from £93.