Kilmarnock

Kilmarnock grew up in the 19th and early 20th centuries from a small market town into a busy industrial centre, then went into decline. One illustrative example is its best-known product, Johnnie Walker whisky.

John Walker (1805-1857) was a general grocer, and a teetotaller. Brewing and distilling were traditional farm trades in Ayrshire as elsewhere, but small scale, erratic in quality and heavily taxed, which fostered illicit stills and smuggling. The Excise Act of 1823 greatly reduced tax and facilitated legal distilling, and Scotch whisky blossomed into a profitable large scale industry. Walker's business therefore focussed on whisky. He was never a distiller himself, but blended whiskies to order for his customers, at a time when blending at source was not permitted.

The Spirits Act of 1860 legalised blending, and John's descendants ramped this up, to make Walker's Kilmarnock Whisky into a nationally-recognised brand. Blends were sweeter and more palatable and found a mass market across Britain and its global commercial empire. The Walker family introduced the square bottle (more efficient and less breakable in transit), the angled label (more visible and distinctive) and a range of products. They bought up distilleries, beginning with Cardhu in 1893, to secure the output for their blends, which require a precise, constant and commercially secret mixture. The signature "Striding Man", that dapper Regency buck, appeared in 1909.

Johnnie Walker Red Label in the 20th century dominated the budget end of the whisky market. It was the dram of the Scottish working man, followed by a half pint of ale to rinse the last drops from the glass. It was the sustenance of funeral teas and the consolation for home defeats at the fitba'. It was your Christmas present to Uncle Henry, though if he was wealthy and you had expectations, you'd upgrade him to Black Label.

By train:

Trains from Glasgow Central run every 30 min, taking 50 min, with the last train shortly after 23:00. They continue every couple of hours to New Cumnock, Sanquhar, Dumfries, Annan, Gretna and Carlisle. (Don't use this route from England, take the fast train from London to Glasgow then change.)

The 1 railway station is central in town. There is a staffed ticket office and machines, toilets and a waiting room. There is level access to Platforms 1, 2 and 3, and a lift to Platform 4.

By bus:

Stagecoach Bus X76 runs hourly from Glasgow Buchanan station, taking 40 min. The last bus is at 9:30PM.

The slow Bus 4 runs every 30 min from Glasgow Buchanan, taking 70 min and continuing to Prestwick Airport and town, and Ayr, another 40 min. The fast bus X16 on this route is suspended in 2022.

Bus 10 runs hourly from Troon, taking an hour via Muirhead and Dundonald.

Bus 11 runs every 12 min from Ardrossan (for Arran ferry), taking 75 min via Saltcoats, Stevenston, Kilwinning and Irvine.

The 2 bus station is central, 200 yards east of the railway station.

By road:

From Glasgow follow M77 southwest, 23 miles. This continues beyond Kilmarnock as A77 to Prestwick, Ayr, Girvan, Cairnryan (for Ulster ferries) and Stranraer.

From the south follow M74 then turn onto A71 west, the old Edinburgh - Ayr road.