Magherafelt

"Magherafelt" derives from Machaire Fíolta, meaning "plain of Fíolta", and there was a monastery settlement here in medieval times. There's nothing left of that now, and the present town was created during the 17th century plantation era. English authority had been shocked by an uprising in Donegal and the burning of Derry, so they handed the whole kit and caboodle over to a London business consortium. These gentlemen created the walled city of Londonderry, divvied up the territory between their merchant company members, and brought in loyal Protestant colonists to prevent future Troubles. The Worshipful Company of Salters came ninth in the merchant hierarchy, and they were allocated a tract in the south of the county around Magherafelt. "On a wreath of the colours, a cubit arm erect, issuing from clouds all proper, holding a covered salt argent..." (and so on, at some length) — why, their coat of arms alone should be enough to cow those damned rebels. (It's among those displayed in Londonderry's Guildhall.) These companies ruled until 19th century local government reforms; the Salters diversified into other food additives and chemicals, and still function as a charity.

The plantations established a population that would have no truck with a catholic-dominated independent Ireland, and in 1921 County Londonderry was one of the six Ulster counties that became part of Northern Ireland within the UK. Magherafelt's fortunes rose and fell with that of Belfast and the wider province. Late 20th-century economic slump and sectarian tensions fed upon each other; 11 people were killed locally in this phase of Troubles, and in 1993 town centre was wrecked by a car bomb. It's nowadays a quiet market town on the edge of the Belfast commuter belt.

By road from Belfast follow M2 past Antrim then A6 west. From the south you can avoid Belfast if rush hour is looming by branching off A1 at Newry and heading through Armagh, Dungannon and Cookstown.

Ulsterbus 110 / 210 runs from Antrim via Randalstown and Castledawson to Magherafelt (50 min), and continues to Moneymore and Cookstown (another 20 min). They're every two hours M-F, with only four on Saturday. Antrim is usually the most convenient railway station, with trains between Belfast and Londonderry, and buses from Lisburn via Belfast International Airport.

Bus 89 also runs twice M-F from Cookstown, by a roundabout route via Killycolpy and Ard Bo.

Bus 127 runs from Ballymena via Portglenone, Bellaghy and Castledawson, taking an hour to Magherafelt. They run hourly M-F and every two hours Saturday.

Bus 116 runs every hour or so from Coleraine, taking an hour. You may have to change buses in Maghera.

Goldliner Bus 278 runs in university term-time, with one bus Su-F from Monaghan via Armagh, Moy, Dungannon, Cookstown, Magherafelt, Garvagh and Coleraine to Ulster University, Portstewart and Portrush.

1 Buscentre is on Union St in Magherafelt town centre.

Buses between Belfast and Londonderry stop at Maghera Park & Ride on A6 south edge of that village. The stop is within walking distance of Ballynahone Bog.